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Friday, 25 November 2016
Thursday, 17 November 2016
I had to write this down: the Caterpillar Angel
The first ever night out of second
year should have been bloody fantastic. Finally back with university friends
and headed to the union, we had drinks at someone’s house beforehand and then set
off. Should have been fantastic: was horrendous.
It seems bizarre to me that the
mere beginning of the tale is that I
completely lost my debit card, ID and money (as well as the bag they were in) during the walk
from pre-drinks to the union. I later realised this had happened because I put
my purse in the pocket of my shorts; unfortunately for me, those shorts do not,
in fact, have pockets. A grand start to a grand night.
A kind (pragmatic) friend helped
retrace my steps in search of my valuables while the rest of the group went
into the club, but it turns out that streets are actually quite dark when it's dark. So I instead hoped my belongings might just be at her house from earlier – she went to the
club, and I set off in the opposite direction, to her house, mortified and
angry. I stropped back through the student living area of Hyde Park, grimacing
over “Where are you?!” texts from friends I’d promised to meet. This is a bad omen, I couldn’t help but
think as I trudged along, kicking at scraps of rubbish on the pavement in tipsy
annoyance. If I’m stupid enough to do
this on the first night, I’ll probably be dead before graduation. And someone’s
probably going to find my cards tonight and thieve my identity and join UKIP under my name or something equally distressing.
True disaster then hit. A good
fifteen minutes away from my house, and now aware of the considerable time that
had elapsed since we had first left pre-drinks, I realised I needed the toilet.
Quite an alarming and acute realisation, actually, and I had a desperate moment
of fervently wishing I were a man just so as to deal with the situation
efficiently there and then. But in this instance, #ThisGirlCannot, so I started to pick up speed a
little, half trotting down the hill. Of course this only worsened the situation
and so, to distract myself, I started humming quite loudly. At least their house is a lot closer than
mine, I told myself. Priorities
were clear at that moment: pee, then purse.
I was in physical pain and
humming very loudly before I finally reached
familiar streets and wound my way to the cluster of roads where pre-drinks had
taken place. Dozens of my friends lived in this area, I reflected, but at the start of the year nobody had directions by heart yet. And directions are not my
forte anyway. Earlier, I had in fact briefly already worried that one day I would get confused between
the roads and houses entirely and turn up at the wrong one.
…And just as my bladder was about
to pop like an over inflated birthday balloon (probably incurring shrieks of
terror in the same way), I realised this exact fate of street-confusion had
befallen me. I peered at the row of houses as if through a kaleidoscope, the
same black doors and identical living room windows over and over, and blinked. Confused and stranded,
I hopped around the darkened street humming louder and louder – and soon admitted
to myself that I had no way of identifying where they lived. And this really wasn’t
about my belongings. It was about my bladder.
Then, just when I had reached the
critical moment – having to decide whether to flat-out sprint for home (would I
even make it?) or literally wee on
someone’s door step (ah, the bright undergraduate lives we lead) – a giant caterpillar loomed in the window directly in
front of me.
It was a huge caterpillar, seemingly
orange-hued although unclear in the dim streetlight, standing upright. My tuneless
hum trailed off. I was not frightened, per se, but rather in awe: this caterpillar was
not just big, it was giant, floor
to ceiling it seemed to me, with wise eyes behind glasses. Good grief, was this
possible? Could a backed up bladder provoke miraculous hallucinations? Is this
the old wives’ tale I was never warned of: neglect your bathroom needs for long
enough and you’ll see enormous insects in spectacles?
My mouth dropped open and I stood,
transfixed on the pavement, still hopping a little from foot to foot, surveying
the great, shadowy beast silhouetted up against the glass. It calmly lifted its
hand, waved in slow motion and then beckoned. It appeared to be speaking. What messages did caterpillars generally have for university students
who need the bathroom so badly they’re getting vision impairment? As if stuck
in treacle, I took a sluggish (ha) step towards it, squinting slowly as I tried
to lip read through the double-glazing –
“LOUISA!” the caterpillar said, jolting me sharply from my hazy trance by rapping its knuckles on the window. “What are you doing?”
“I REALLY really need to use your toilet,” I told him straightforwardly, ignoring
that he knew my name (you can’t question miracles), and the caterpillar shuffled
backwards, out of sight. After a brief panic that my guardian angel had
disappeared, relief struck: the front door unlocked in front of me. Holding
back my tears of pain and hoping my body wasn’t about to collapse in on itself,
I focused my wearied eyes.
The human-sized caterpillar was actually
my human friend Oliver. He was standing upright inside a sleeping bag. “Heating’s
broken and I don’t have a duvet,” he informed me solemnly as I sprinted past
him in a blur of gratitude.
Afterwards, I sat down for a nap, fell off the sofa and then finally went home, but that isn’t entirely to the
point. That night made me question myself (if only it had taught me to look after
my valuables too. We’re still working on that).
Why was that the door in front of which I happened to stop, desolate and convinced that my time was up? Why was Oliver in his living room trying to snatch bits of
phone signal at that precise moment? Why
on earth is it my instinct to trust oversized larvae in the hope that they
can provide me a toilet?
One lesson learnt overall: go to
the toilet before you leave pre-drinks, alright? Promise me you’ll do that.
Because I was blessed, certainly – but we can’t all have gigantic pre-pubescent
butterflies coming to our rescue.
Monday, 14 November 2016
Fox en France Ep.11: Poutine on the Ritz
Friday 4th – Sunday 6th Nov
After an anticlimactic return to work after the holidays
(one hour of exam supervision then being told I was no longer needed for the
day), Friday meant back to Saint-Brieuc (home-from-home here. My
home-from-home-from-home?), and a night in with friends, wine and some chocolate. Reward after a long, hard, sixty minute week at work.
Joel samples the vino |
But the wine was just round the corner, it turned out, and
in no limited supply. Early on it dawned on us that traditional buckets in
which to pour excess drink were nowhere to be found, so our fate was sealed as
soon as the liquid hit our glasses. And stall-owners, rightfully guarding the
Divine Quality of their produce, completely refused to serve us at all until
the smallest drops of whatever we’d previously tasted were gone, so as not to
disrupt the flavour. More top quality advice: you have not been berated until
you’ve been berated by a small, angry, wine-selling Frenchman with a goatee
("No, drink it all!”). The group marching round together after
copious glasses of wine was enough to create a scene anyway, but shortly word
somehow “got out” (we were quite the celebrity buzz, within that marquee) that
we were “all foreign” and stallholders couldn’t believe (or understand why)
there were eight of us from across the world here to taste their wines. Then it
all got rather overwhelming as tumblers and shot glasses were thrown at us from
all angles by beaming stallholders: champagne, cognac, mushroom liqueur
(really), passionfruit-something-or-other, cured ham and lots of cheese. Would
rate the evening highly, although the stuffed wild boar on the sausage table could be
considered a little much.
Genuine shots of mushroom |
SO:
Clouds: If someone is friendly and convincing enough, they
can quite easily convince a group of tourists to buy two bottles of their
finest passionfruit-something-or-other.
Silver linings: It tasted very, very good.
Monday 7th – Monday 14th Nov
An entire week seems like quite a feat to write about, but
some of it is predictable and has been written thousands of times already by thousands of people so it won’t take long to read and absorb:
I watched the election results on Tuesday. I watched it with
American friends, and with baited breath. I do not support Donald Trump nor his
views nor his actions. He won. People handed him power. It sucked.
It really really,
really sucked and seemed to slow the world down a little for
the next few days. This, combined with the single hour of poor-quality sleep I managed to
steal that night, and the fact that I live alone and had no one to wail at in
person after Wednesday, meant the end of the week felt pretty
bleak. And then – call this either
bad luck, or perhaps rather a very clear cut consequence of the above
circumstances – two months’ worth of escaped homesickness rushed in at once and
hit me with force comparative to my kitchen cupboard the other week when I left
it open and then walked into it. With lessons cancelled left, right and centre
(more variation than Western politics, at least) I was beyond grateful when a
couple of pals pitched up on Saturday night and we repeated our
wine-chocolate-film ritual with marvelous healing effects. Who knew that living alone is actually not at all peachy when you feel like the end of the world is nigh?! Someone should note this stuff down.
The rank remains of our Democrat/Republican punch bowls. I remembered I'm allergic to ("Republican") grapefruit and my lips swelled up. Omen? |
I should have hung on, though, to the buried but significant
knowledge that teaching – talking to young people – can almost always perk you
up and haul you out of even the deepest, bleakest wallowing session. Today’s
lessons have made me laugh out loud until I couldn’t speak as the terminale class began their “Swinging
Sixties” topic. After a guessing game of sixties icons (and one absolutely unmentionable attempt at
pronouncing “Quant”), and the realisation that two of them had genuinely never
heard of JFK, we moved on to a “Guess who?” game. I sat on a chair in the
corner – I didn’t need to hover intimidatingly; how could it go wrong? – while they
took turns in guessing which ‘60s icon they had been assigned on the board
behind them by a peer. I settled in comfortably, feeling smugly
assured that this would be the lighthearted, calming end to the day we all
needed.
…Seven minutes passed. Madness descended. Hillary Clinton
had been mistakenly called a man, there seemed to be doubts that Clint Eastwood was human, Vladimir
Putin had been spelt “poutine” (as in the Canadian delicacy), someone had
written my name on the board… I don’t know quite when it went awry.
The moral of the story is - be prepared. One minute there’s blank silence and tentative squeaks of, “Errrrr… I am an actor?”,
and the next you’re having to request if we could possibly stop making each other fascist world leaders and/or Kardashians (the
original “sixties” theme completely dropped). As an awe-inspiring finale of
creativity, one girl even assigned a friend his
own name – cue confusion and partial philosophical meltdown at Monday’s
close: “I am human?!... Attend! Attend!
I am... ME?!” Good. Grief.
SO:
Clouds: A heavy, grey cloud this time, I feel, and one I can’t ignore:
I am worried about the USA.
Silver linings: Small scale remedies in the face of world-wide
tragedies: thankful for friends who are at the end of a Skype or phone call when a Trump-shaped shadow is looming, and those who drove for miles to harmonise and cry over Skylar Astin, huddled under a duvet on my sofa. Try to tell me your Saturday topped that. Plus some very successful lessons, much hilarity, and some real progress in learning the names of my 120 students. ...No longer having to shout "VALENTIN!" or "MANON!" just because it's likely there will be one in the vicinity.
Calm |
Sunday, 6 November 2016
Fox en France Ep.10: Stick it to Le Mans
Thursday 27th – Sunday 30th Oct
Les womans in Le Mans #grammar |
Recovery after Spain was moderately bleak, and merged into
one long house-cleaning, clothes-washing ritual of four days. Riveting stuff.
Monday 31st Oct – 1st Nov
The gentle pits of despair post-Spain were getting to me, so
another change of scene was required: I fled to Le Mans, a nearby(ish) town for
a stay with some other university friends. Yes, more of them. Who knew I had so
many? It was a random choice of location based on geographical convenience
between the three of us and so we had few expectations… Apart from someone
telling me to “look out for the big F1 track” (they know me well, clearly; sports
facilities are always my first go-to sightseeing priority!!!). This meant we were actively impressed on
arrival – possibly because of the crisp clear blue skies and the most welcome croque monsieur I’ve ever been served –
but I am yet to be bored by colossal town squares full of beautiful pale
buildings and friendly cafés.
The Pinterest House |
And then – and then – we
checked into our last-minute AirBnB choice and realised just how fortunate the
entire set up was. Vincent, possibly the friendliest man I have ever met, welcomed us into his (what can
only be described as) palace. I must apologise for the lengths at which I am
about to describe his rooftop apartment: an impressive array of plants tumbling
off shelving units, globes and a sculptures and a large map of early London
spread across a wall. We had no doubt that this man was our cup of tea (notre
tasse de thé?) – from the vintage mojito recipe placard behind a stash of
twenty-five special edition liquor bottles, to ‘60s records lining the walls, to
Jane Birkin posters and wall hangings (tastefully) propped up behind the sofa (“she
is just a goddess!” he informed us).
I genuinely felt like I had stepped inside
the Pinterest app itself as he showed us round the kitchen – low-hanging
lightbulbs on turquoise cords, and a small yellow bus that was actually a
charging station. Jars of farfalle and multi-coloured candy canes lining the
glass cabinet tipped us over from “woah” to a feverish “this is a potential
life goal standard of home”. Vincent, we will be returning. A* in interior
design for you, Glen Coco.
A slightly disturbing cold bolognaise put a dampener on the
evening meal excursion – and an even more disturbing array of costume-clad
French teenagers reminded us that it was in fact Halloween and this had
completely passed us by. So, for the first time since I can remember, I did not
dress up for, nor celebrate, Halloween in any form. We instead drank some wine,
shared our most disturbing stories from our time abroad so far (wouldn’t you
like to know) and went to bed. Quite early.
A rushed panic to catch my train home resulted in an
inevitable but nonetheless painful moment wherein I lost any capacity to speak
French under pressure (seat number confusion, obviously). To my dismay, just
before I dissolved in a pool of my own sweat in the aisle, the debacle ended
with an eight-year-old asking me (with remarkable complacency for someone who
looked young enough to be an extra on the Teletubbies),
“Oh… You’re English?” and then translating for me the confusion of
which-seat-is-mine. Not fun, very embarrassing, and not okay that such a young
child was so full of intimidating sass and eye-rolls. Just because you’ve clearly been conjugating
verbs since the the minute you were born. In, like, 2011. No grudges held here.
Gratuitous shots of Vincent's place (thanks Anna) |
There are leaves everywhere and it’s such an autumn cliché
but I’m becoming fixated with them, covering all the paths and roads in a fiery
red carpet. So in a moment of healthy November delirium I stopped on my way
back from the station and picked one up: it was perfectly intact and about
twice the size of my head (no, really). I then stood up and realised an old
lady was staring at me. My reputation continues to be on point – I think “Clumsy
British Leaf Girl” suits me well, personally. Does leaf-pressing work the same
way as flower-pressing? If not there is a leaf inside my teaching textbooks for
100% no reason and knowing me it’ll rot and crumble and then fall out of the
pages in the middle of a lesson in three months’ time. Good luck explaining
your way out of that one, Future Lou xoxo
SO:
Clouds: I want Vincent’s apartment to be my own but it isn’t
and never will be, I have started to stash bits of tree paraphernalia in my
apartment, and I got an accidental private translator but he’s barely out of
the womb and that feels demeaning.
Silver linings: Le Mans was another idyllic area I’ve been
lucky enough to see, and we booked an AirBnB palace by mistake.
Saturday, 29 October 2016
Fox en France Ep.9: Bah, BAR, Black Sheep
Monday 25th – Thursday 27th Oct
Still not sure what it is or how we found it |
This week began with a four hour coach to Barcelona, sweeping us out of one old Spanish city
and into another – except this city had the fun, additional layer of Catalan. My bare-minimum Spanish suddenly seemed like native fluency in
comparison to my comprehension of Catalan and as we’d left the actual Spanish
speakers of our group behind in Valencia, I was withered down to a state of mild
hysteria and shouting “¿Qué?” at anyone who approached me. I’d love to say I get
by with a little help from my friends; in fact I get by ordering cafe con leche at every single place we
stop because it’s the only thing I can say and my friends like to watch me
suffer. And that’s not even Catalan.
Our hostel was great, and soon we had a recovered, fresh
need for Spanish nightlife (that Enrique-and-reggaeton quota is never quite
full. Once you've experienced it you need it like a drug). We
were soon taken in like the weak tourists we are by a man in a pink shirt on La
Rambla, with alluring promises of the magical “s” word (sangria, obviously). However, before
I knew it, I was given a tequila shot, a wristband and was being herded like a
small, confused sheep into a tavern (one ironically named The Black
Sheep). Not long after, I found myself in a drinking game with a girl from LA
and her hostel, we were led to a club like more livestock, Europop and reggaeton ensued, and I watched Matt dance to Tina Turner. Quite the evening.
this big Gaudi thing |
The next day brought a stroll (crawl. We were crawling) to
the Sagrada Familia, and then the market on La Rambla. Both impressive. Both,
you know, kind of big. One full of cured meat and coconuts. One… Not. Thanks to
a stunning recommendation from a friend, we found a backstreet tapas place for one euro per tapas that evening – but not before I had managed to get everyone
lost and took the group on a slightly unnerving tour of the shifty
neighbourhoods of Barca. I could pretend it was a purposeful and insightful
anti-tourist exploration but my nervous laughter each time we hit yet another dimly
lit street gave me away. Eventually we found the tapas restaurant and nothing
mattered anymore. Tapas were worth it.
I managed to lead us astray yet again on Wednesday as we
headed to El Raval – the “edgy” quarter (my words, not theirs). By (my) mistake
we first walked through Chinatown instead and then accidentally skirted round
the edge of the place I had meant to find instead of going through it, before
finally stumbling across a record store, so I knew we’d hit the #edgy goal (you
can take the students out of Leeds, but…). Then someone sold me a peanut butter
doughnut and nothing mattered anymore. Doughnut was worth it (no
theme here).
finally understood some Spanish :) |
The last evening meant a trip to the Manchester Bar
(travelling with Northerners, wasn’t I) and a relatively early night which
still felt too late when I had to wake up at 9:00am for my flight home. I
managed, somehow, and waved goodbye to the warm air, and the nachos, the tapas
and Gaudi and jugs of sangria, the churros and high-rise buildings and city fumes
and palm trees, understanding just one word in an entire sentence, hostels and tourists
and pickpockets, ice creams and paella and my pals. ¡¡¡Hasta luega!!! (that could
literally mean anything, I’m just guessing).
The strangest thing that really hit me, though, was when I
stepped off the plane in Rennes. I smelled a bakery and saw a sign for galettes and other French words
everywhere, and the cold but green, green landscapes and orange-red autumn
trees. And I actually almost felt like being back in Brittany was home. How’s that
for a revelation?
SO:
Clouds: I had to leave Espagna; cry with me. I speak even less Catalan
than I do Spanish. And the bus I needed home from the airport doesn’t run in
October (fun surprise after my flight landed).
Silver linings: I didn’t get pickpocketed, I googled the term
for Spanish speakers and it’s “hispanophone”, and I have laughed an almost
unbearable amount in the past week. Thank you to the girls in Valencia for
showing us round, and to Matt Stew James Josh and Johnnie in various
combinations for being a reliably great-but-infuriating bunch to travel with (but
call me Bindi again and it’s all over).
Friday, 28 October 2016
Fox en France Ep.8: Seafood Paella (ella, ella, eh eh eh)
Thursday 20th – Monday 24th Oct
This might be a British thing, but stepping off a plane and
wondering whether the heat is the plane engine or the actual climate is a beautiful moment. Getting to Valencia late at
night, I was too giddy with joy to see the end of my ten-hour journey even to
be annoyed when we got lost immediately on the way to the hostel. The air smelt
of palm trees, sangria and the promise of trying to balance great nights
out/actually sightseeing (it didn’t, it smelt of European cities, so bad sewage
and cigarettes). I had that travel buzz – probably because I was constantly fretting
about the fact that I am, while travelling, probably one of the easiest
pickpocket targets in the world. Forgetful, easily-distracted and blessed with
the attention span of a newt.
The stuff of nightmares |
The first forty-eight hours, honestly, are a blur of food. I
don’t know how many churros I inhaled on Friday morning but I’m ready for an
official certificate of congratulations – and at some point we also tackled
paella, tapas, sangria, more sangria, some more sangria, and then bookended
more churros in at the end. Somewhere in amidst the ongoing feast I discovered that
a Spanish exam in 2012 gets you 100% nowhere in actual Spain if you haven’t spoken
it since, and so I was a helpless child in the midst of my Spanish-speaking
friends (I planned to be slick while writing this and use the Spanish version
of Anglophones. But all I can think of is “Spanglophones”. Spanielphones.
Espagnaphonia? Just sounds like a fear of Spain). Luckily gin and tonic is
almost the same in both languages, and gazing at big squares, high-ceiling
markets and old buildings doesn’t require much Spanish GCSE vocabulary. The
only time I actually struggled was
when I headed out to the modern art gallery alone, trusted Google Maps way too
much, and was too incompetent to realise I was in the wrong building. Yes, an
entirely different building, no, I honestly didn’t realise, yes, I am that
dense, no, I didn’t walk straight back out but instead endured a full forty
minute tour because I didn’t want to be impolite. Classic. It was a large and
seemingly never-ending food installation which featured everything from a mundane
glass case of spatulas, to a surreal exhibit with a giant seven-eyed bull-creature and the
word “tapas” everywhere. I am scarred and may be suing Google and their confusing
maps.
Reunited with Millie |
It didn’t take us long (two nights) to accidentally sniff
out a huge group of Erasmus students from Leeds and we had one of those “such a small world” conversations that
are much, much more boring
when you re-tell them, or even think about them the
day after, so I’ll leave that gripping tale to the imagination. Spanish
clubbing was the genuine Enrique-reggaeton-fest I’d originally imagined (but also
originally berated myself for stereotyping). Cue more churros for morning-after
recovery.
SO:
Clouds: I cannot in any way speak Spanish, and my stupid uni
nickname came back to haunt me thanks to my travel pals.
Silver linings: My appalling lack of Spanish made me realise I
actually really can speak French. And churros are absolute life.
Wednesday, 19 October 2016
Fox en France Ep.7: J & the Giant Beach
Week 10th October
I write this with a slightly heavy heart, having just
discovered that my flat’s electricity has failed in certain rooms. I had to
shower with the door open just to let some natural light in, but then had an
acute panic that the maintenance staff would choose this precise moment to do
their scheduled check up and let themselves in with a master key. Thank
goodness no such crisis occurred but I am a little on edge as I reflect upon
the week.
It has been another marvellous blur, studded with little Inevitable
Louisa What Are Even You Doing Moments. Examples from the past seven days include
getting my key stuck in a classroom lock (until all thirty students waiting
outside fell silent to watch me struggle) – proving you haven’t been laughed at
until you have been laughed at by French teens, and walking straight into a
kitchen cupboard I had briefly left open. Bump on my forehead to prove it.
not bad. so-so. average. |
Wednesday brought an exciting change of scene as myself and
three fellow assistants passed a full day in the grown-up house & home
wonderland that is IKEA. Was the thrill present because we are finally proper adults
who are genuinely passionate about spatulas and potpourri? Or because we
are socially-stunted language assistants from remote towns wherein the biggest
shops are the local bakeries? We’ll never know, but the potpourri was nevertheless on
a level of Christmas-come-early excitement (unlike the packets of tinsel which were on a level of Christmas-come-early absurdity).
On the late bus ride home (yes, we really did make a whole day of it), I was
the only passenger, and the sun was long, long gone. I didn’t have particular
qualms about walking home from the station for all of two minutes, but after a
chat with the friendliest bus driver I’ve possibly ever met (and I go to
university in Yorkshire so that is perhaps saying
something) I was dropped off directly outside my front door! Generosity at its
best, so thanks, Monsieur Le Bus Driver.
I had astonishingly few classes this week as teacher after
teacher informed me that for one reason or another I wasn’t needed (are they
trying to tell me something?), so instead I had lots of time to do absolutely
nothing and still feel completely shattered. IKEA clearly took it out of me.
Consuming at least fourteen entire baguettes per day is the only obvious
solution; I need energy.
Panorama setting well-used |
The evening let us sample St Brieuc’s finest (erm) nightlife as a
group of us went for drinks (“We’re in the bar by the square!” “Which square?”
“The one with the um… bars?”) , and while I’m still not entirely sure why, we
were kindly bought a round of drinks by some locals and then were told we spoke
good French. I’ll take both the wine and the compliment.
Another weekend leaves me feeling absolutely shattered, but
thanks to St Brieuc specialist Joel, we found a place open to buy food on
Sunday and soothed our slightly fragile states. On to the next week… Not entirely sure how but I appear to be off to Spain tomorrow!
SO:
Clouds: If there
was any doubt, I can confirm that showers in the dark are not fun. And if a man says “you listen me I very the English good”
outside a bar, you can guarantee the following conversation is going to be
utterly incomprehensible.
Silver linings: There
is nothing quite like the sweet feeling of a group hangover stroll to find a
perfect picnic hill on which to eat a croque monsieur. Am I in a black and white film?
Tuesday, 11 October 2016
Fox en France Ep.6: Turn around, bright (purple) eyes
Saturday 8th Oct
Like a bad TV drama, we return to the scene of the morning
after… A sluggish group trip to the boulangerie on my street started the
official weekend and eventually my assistant pals returned back to their far
flung corners of the côte d’armor. I was so overtired
during breakfast that when presented with teaspoons next to our pastries, I absentmindedly
used it. Ever eaten a muffin with a teaspoon? I advise against it completely.
Well-deserved boulangerie trip |
American assistant Meghan (musical theatre graduate, a.k.a the
dream), hosted me and uni friend Alistair for the weekend – an impromptu arrangement
so I really can’t say how grateful I was for that – and an absolute highlight
was their new kitten Whiskey. He was so small that I often lost sight of him completely,
and there came an awful moment where I crossed my legs and heard an odd squeak as
the little thing flew from under my chair. A sentence you never want to say is: “Oh
my god I’m so sorry, I think I just kicked your cat!” Makin’ friends for life
across France.
A trip to the ever-famous rue de la soif (literally speaking, ‘Thirsty Street’) ended a
brilliant Saturday, and Meghan told me she was going to find me a “hashtag winabew”.
And if you correctly guess what that means, I’ll get you one too.
SO:
Clouds: I am officially made of evil kitten-kicking atoms, and
I ruined my own muffin experience by overdoing cutlery. Tragic, I know, lesson
learned.
Silver linings: Kind strangers made wonderful hosts, I’ve had a
taste of the French nightlife here, and I’ve heard that my wifi box has arrived
and awaits me in the post office. Sweet.
Sunday 9th Oct
Beautiful streets in Rennes (shame about the crane) |
Transport was non-existent so I booked a car share online to
trek back; I can’t pretend I was at ease, per se, with going against every
lesson I was ever taught as a child (strangers’ cars etc.) but I was delighted
to find my car hosts were an incredibly friendly woman and her three year old
daughter. The other paying passenger sat in the front so I spent an hour in the
backseat practising a completely new French dialect: child speak. The little
girl was so infectiously bonkers I was giggling with slight delirium whether I
knew what she was saying or not (“Your French is good, don’t worry, she just
makes up a lot of words”, her mother told me).
There was something deliciously surreal about driving
through acres of countryside sunset, while it was explained to me, gently but
gravely, that “the little pony’s name is Annalise and her eyes are bright pink
and purple because she has met her husband”.
Once home I thought I might collapse on the spot from the lack
of sleep, but my colleague Nadine invited me to have dinner with her family,
and to be honest, cider, yet more crêpes and good company were potentially
the only things that could have perked me up at that point. So in the end I started
and ended the weekend the same way: happy, grateful and very well-fed.
Then, as four mammoth, juicy (albeit metaphorical)
cherries-on-top, Nadine told me, while kindly driving me home, that she had a
bike I could borrow, and gave me some traditional Réunion cooking from her
daughter’s boyfriend’s mother (comically tenuous but so appreciated). Meanwhile,
my stove has been fixed (haaaallelujah) and so has my kitchen light. I would
have spent more time squealing ecstatically about everything if I hadn’t
instantaneously dropped dead asleep.
SO:
Clouds: I kind of wish I had bright purple eyes too.
Silver linings: I have a potential bike, lovely neighbours and
colleagues, I had live entertainment during the hour long car journey, and you
can tell by the ridiculous nature of my ‘clouds’ that this weekend has been
brilliant.
Monday, 10 October 2016
Fox en France Ep.5: I'm a crêpe, I'm a weirdo
Wednesday 5th Oct
Enough choice for you? |
I was quite the flustered mess once I hit the bakery, and turned
round so quickly when leaving that I almost walked into the glass sliding door
because it was really clean and I
couldn’t tell which part was open. True highlight and will definitely help with
my town reputation.
SO:
Clouds: I lost at least two decades of my life in a supermarket; 40th birthday party invite to come.
Silver linings: Camouflaging with my surroundings well enough
to be mistaken for a shop assistant.
Thursday 6th Oct
"What can you do in Winter?" |
I particularly enjoyed helping to police a debate about Pokémon
Go and Call of Duty (waste of time? Which is better? Is gaming really a sport?)
– proving that should you find a subject that the students care about, you’re
sorted. The same rule applied in my two seconde classes.
Ask them about how many daughters the Wilson family has and you’re not too
popular, but carve out some time to ask about music and you’ve got a fair bit
of conversation about US rap flowing. …Obviously, I wasn’t a big part of this
conversation.
SO:
Clouds: I keep getting attached to parts of the school by my
clothing.
Silver linings: Still alive, the students are really nice (so
far).
Friday 7th Oct
Within half an hour of my third official lesson I must have subconsciously
become bored of saying “well done” to every student, and so to my surprise I
was asked, “Madame, what is ‘nailed it’?” Ha, ha, oh, it means you have
done well, but it’s very informal and please
don’t use it in your essays. (I can imagine a colleague approaching me
in the staffroom: “Nicolas has written that XXX Historical Figure ‘nailed’ that
war… You wouldn’t have anything to do with this, would you?”)
I then rushed home like a child to get my apartment ready
for my guests. This involved doing precisely nothing except for finding all the
glassware I could, and preparing to tell some of them that they were going
to have to drink from empty jam jars. Classy.
Paul Hollywood on a mad one (no, that's just sugar) |
SO:
Clouds: Post-2am-crêpe-situation my kitchen looks like the site
of a heated argument between Mary Berry and Paul Hollywood (thanks a bunch,
Joel).
Silver linings: There was a 2am crêpe situation (no but seriously,
thank you Joel), my balcony has been christened by heated political conversation
(as all good balconies should be, no?), and everyone sneaked their cheese leftovers
into my fridge. Angels.
Wednesday, 5 October 2016
Fox en France Ep.4: Breakfast at Tiphaine's
Monday 3rd Oct
The first full day was, predictably, twice as mad as the
half day last week (my body may be weak but my mathematics is still shipshape), as I finished yet more paperwork
and attended five hours of lessons. A new tidal wave of Mannons and Julies and
Melvins and Tiphaines (so many
Tiphaines, all spelt differently) asking me about my favourite French city,
favourite colour, favourite food and whether or not I know French music (sorry,
no… Still no).
"Pride and Prejudice" chapter suggestions! |
I soon returned to my standard state of utterly baffled in
an international politics lesson – taught all in English – as the teens were
asked about the US elections. “I vote for Trump because,” started one boy, “he want
to build a wall for Mexico, and I want to catching Mexicans!” Needless to say
my jaw promptly unhinged and fell to the floor, but after two seconds of utter
silence and baited breath, the whole class burst into laughter as the boy cried,
“No no, it’s a joke! It’s just a joke! Donald Trump is…” (cue the entire room making an array of rehearsed negative gestures, ranging from thumbs
down to elaborately mimed gagging). Panic over. Not teaching Trump supporters.
SO:
Clouds: A group of French eighteen year olds have a better
analytical understanding of Jane Austen than I ever will, and (had to happen) one teacher has
blown my I-Don’t-Speak-French act.
Silver linings: Tea tastes better on a balcony, my students
aren’t racist, and I made a kebab joke to a class and they actually laughed. …Okay,
so you had to be there.
Tuesday 4th Oct
While walking through town |
We were taught some exercises to use with students (useful,
definitely will employ) and given too much free coffee (not useful, buzzing and
eye-twitching followed). One exercise involved making up a story to surround a
song lyric – and don’t ask me how and it
definitely was not my fault at all but ours ended up being about parallel
universes, plagues and magical boats. The training leader told me I had “a
child’s mind” but she was half smiling so I think it was a compliment about my
ability to relate to students. Actually it might have been a grimace at my
peculiarity but let’s just pretend it was a matter of cultural
misunderstanding.
All the chat about Donald Trump in the politics class
yesterday made me think about how much I hate cultural stereotypes about
countries’ traditions. ... In other news, ahem, I may be hosting a wine and
cheese night soon for all the other assistants I met today to celebrate our
first week in France.
Party time! Just a mildly colossal shame that I’ve
remembered I live directly above one of my fellow teachers.
SO:
Clouds: Abysmally late to training day: Lou fails at transport
again, cheese/wine rave may lose me a colleague and friend, frightening (but
comforting/necessary) terrorism drill at the college during training (Europeans
panic significantly, Americans shrug and know what to do).
Silver linings: There are others out there like me! (profound),
I may be living remotely but “at least it’s in the pretty countryside” (thanks
for that suggestion Sam, this week’s Opinion Box is now open if anybody would
like to make a cloud/silver lining contribution), and I have made comfortable
peace with my lack of oven.
Sunday, 2 October 2016
Fox en France Ep.3: Boulevard of Broken English
Friday 30th
PANIQUE! I am immediately eating my words – never should I have
sneered at the idea of pretending I only speak English. For the sake of their English skills, it was requested I tell the students I am completely unable to speak
French, and it turns out that thinking that would be easy was a silly, silly
mistake.
have you ever realised how weird the word "pigeonhole" is? |
Later, a boy said in French, “Can you understand what I’m
saying?” and I had to bite my tongue to keep from replying. His friends
laughed, saying, “She doesn’t understand French so you can’t ask her in French
if she understands French, you idiot.” The pinnacle of banter. Not to mention
the: “You can ask her some questions about herself and England.” The selection
of questions was as follows:
- - “You like what star?” (Not the Kardashians) “Ian Somerhalder?” (Er, sure)
- - “You watch Game of Thrones?” (Sorry, no…)
- - “What music do you listen to?” (Anything... Probably more indie music than I naturally would because I do this thing called student radio? Because we have this playlist thing and oh my god there is way too much technical vocabulary in this answer so I’ll just say I like Beyoncé)
- - “What do you study at university?” (I can’t say French or they’ll realise I can speak it – instead I say English)
- - “So why are you in France?” (Very good question)
Very very hectic
first day.
SO:
Clouds: I should have watched Game of Thrones, and I have no bowls in my cupboards.
Silver linings: The school food is incredible and I get it for cheaps, win.
Saturday 1st Oct
NEVER in my life would I have thought that a slip of paper saying "attestation" could bring quite so much joy but such is French life - the magical signed form that lets me get a bank account. And a bank account means, admin-wise, that I can get wifi and a phone contract. I could have sworn angels appeared and started singing as the Headmaster's secretary handed me the file.
Navigation skills around town are improving a little. A.k.a I know where to buy bread (200m) and how to get to work (20m) so that's impressive from me.
First actual day working tomorrow...
SO:
Clouds: I should have watched Game of Thrones, and I have no bowls in my cupboards.
Silver linings: The school food is incredible and I get it for cheaps, win.
Saturday 1st Oct
Celebratory croissant |
NEVER in my life would I have thought that a slip of paper saying "attestation" could bring quite so much joy but such is French life - the magical signed form that lets me get a bank account. And a bank account means, admin-wise, that I can get wifi and a phone contract. I could have sworn angels appeared and started singing as the Headmaster's secretary handed me the file.
Navigation skills around town are improving a little. A.k.a I know where to buy bread (200m) and how to get to work (20m) so that's impressive from me.
First actual day working tomorrow...
SO:
Clouds: Still no oven, but you can’t have everything. I bid farewell to my father (sob, sob).
Silver linings: Temporary wifi situation SORTED, as well as
a bank (Monsieur at the Bank you are the absolute dream & so helpful), and got bus tickets sorted for my
induction day on Tuesday... Travel plans for October holidays may be underway.
Fox en France Ep.2: Rennes, Forrest, Rennes!
Wednesday 28th Sept
During the day time when we’re exploring nearby towns and sorting out paperwork or when I’m with my colleagues and being shown round the school, I feel almost calm and like this year is going to be weird, different, but really cool and quite special.
During the day time when we’re exploring nearby towns and sorting out paperwork or when I’m with my colleagues and being shown round the school, I feel almost calm and like this year is going to be weird, different, but really cool and quite special.
But then I get home... And I still have no oven, the kitchen light doesn’t work and I
potentially may never have housemates – and after Leeds, which had one of the
former and eight of the latter, this is taking some serious adaptation already.
My solution is to get a radio hooked up ASAP and find the French equivalent
of Capital. Or something.
The paperwork continues to be on top of me and I may in fact
purchase an avalanche alarm for when the ever-growing pile inevitably topples
over and buries me for days.
Shockingly, the language barrier is actually the easiest
part of the culture shock so far, and as of this moment I’ve only once needed
to actively stop someone talking and tell them I don’t have a fucking clue
what’s going on.
SO:
Clouds: Kitchen lighting iffy, public transport a mystery, am potentially only 20 year old in Brittany, will have “ADMIN OVERLOAD” on gravestone.
Silver linings: Saw a beaut medieval town, am breathing, I
found out my official address and I literally live on a “boulevard”. How’s that
for a classy French year abroad?
Thursday 29th Sept
Good day: drove over to Rennes (making the most of my dad’s car…) to meet a Leeds friend who goes to university there. It’s a gorgeous town with lots of old buildings and pretty streets, great shops and three/four universities so loads of young people (nearly fell over at the sight of people my age). It was great meeting some of the uni students there and knowing that I have people to see if I ever manage to sort transport from this little place.
Thursday 29th Sept
Place de la République, Rennes |
The wifi/SIM card debacle ceases to end and I have now more confusing options, a SIM I may or may not be able to use, and dying hope for the future. Just kidding, that’s a bit pessimistic. My hope is not dying but rather just pretty seriously ill. Comatose. Very, dormant, like a volcano you let tourists potter around on because it hasn’t surfaced for literal millennia. Anyway.
I am trying to listen to French radio to feel all French and like a properly dedicated language student immersing herself in the target language but I’m very certain the station I found this morning just made a horrific joke about Syrian child refugees using a remix of the “Bear Necessities” from the Jungle Book. So I think I need a different station.
....Aaaand the song that just played on the new station is one I’ve already heard twice yesterday. I feel like French pop is even more limited than I thought.
SO:
Clouds: iii-soooo-laaaaa-tion, noticing the echoes in my apartment, French radio is like being submitted to a 24/7 special of Eurovision.
Silver linings: Rennes is lovely, my colleagues are so kind, and my balcony gets loads of sun during the day.
Fox en France Ep 1: It's Brittany, bitch.
Right well, here I am, overtired and baffled, sitting along
in a big, big flat somewhere in France. It is a ridiculously big flat and I’m
still a bit confused as to if/where other flatmates might appear from but at
least it’s very very nice and brand new. Clothes away, diffuser out (rooms that
smell good are A*) and I even have a microwave (this morning I had pretty much
zero furniture). I even have two irons and a big sofa, a desk in my room and
lots of chairs. Lots of chairs. I
hope I make some friends to sit in them or I’ll be going all Marius-in-Les-Mis
(“Empty Chairs at Empty Tables”, for those less in the know).
I met some of the other English teaching staff today, and
had lunch with them – they all seem lovely. Some are even kind enough to speak
to me in English a bit. Nadine said she could drive me to the shops every week,
so she’s currently top of the bae list. They have also told me I am not allowed
to speak French to any of the students, nor tell them I can speak French at all
(ha - oh no, how terribly difficult that will be).
Meanwhile, others only spoke French to me and I actually
kept up (surprised). They chatted a lot about previous-assistant-Brian, who was
American. He, and I quote, “had a very kamikaze approach. Oh he
was such good fun! Didn’t speak a word of French”. This means I have such a
lot, but also so very little, to live up to there – so thank you, Elusive
Brian.
They all admit that public transport is genuinely a bit of
an issue here, but a lot of them commute to other towns so hopefully I can nab
a few rides. There was a bit of grimacing when I said I didn’t have a car
(great) so that bodes well.
So I am here. Bit scared but hopefully
tomorrow’s big admin day will help sort my main questions (am I seriously living
alone in an apartment that the Von Trapps could comfortably inhabit? Where’s
that pesky oven at? Etc)
Bring on da cheese.
Sobbing to my dentist & talking to cats
“Ooh, a year abroad! How exciting,” smiles the dental hygienist,
putting on plastic gloves. “Where are you going?”
There is a moment where I almost say Sydney. Toronto. Los
Angeles. Heck, I almost say Melbourne, I even
almost say Paris. Because then at least I haven’t lied about the country.
I swallow. “Brittany.” Silence. Does she need clarification? “Northern France.”
She is polite, and if surprised, she hides it well. “Lovely!
You study French?” she coos, getting out the mini-mirror. I nod but say
nothing. Mostly because there’s a mirror now wedged in my mouth.
“That must be beautiful! By the coast?” And it’s tempting to just murmur "mmmhmm" or some sort of affirmative, and be done with it. Because if I say no, she’ll look confused, and I’ll want to explain, and I’m worried it’ll all come out in one gushing torrent (tears and all) and she won’t be able to stop me even with a local anesthetic and dental drill:
“That must be beautiful! By the coast?” And it’s tempting to just murmur "mmmhmm" or some sort of affirmative, and be done with it. Because if I say no, she’ll look confused, and I’ll want to explain, and I’m worried it’ll all come out in one gushing torrent (tears and all) and she won’t be able to stop me even with a local anesthetic and dental drill:
No, not by the coast. Central Brittany – in what seems to be
the only non-coastal town – and a
tiny town at that. Smaller than Leeds by about six hundred thousand people,
smaller than Guildford by about fifty thousand people. Tiny. An hour and a half
from the capital city of Brittany. But you can get there by train? No, no
train. But by bus? Nope. Two hours, sure, by getting a train north for an hour then
southeast for an hour. The two longer sides of an isosceles. You see?! I'm so wound up and nervy I've managed to remember the word "isosceles"!
Didn't you pick where you were going? Only by vague region. But… there
will be another assistant, right? At your school? Apparently not. But there’ll be stuff going on in the town, right? All French towns have things going on! Well, a terrifying night using Google street view promised a few restaurants, a couple of banks and a MacDonalds. The height of French culture and cuisine, clearly. That night ended in sniffles, some hyperventilation and snapping my laptop shut so quickly in frustration I almost cracked the screen.
will be another assistant, right? At your school? Apparently not. But there’ll be stuff going on in the town, right? All French towns have things going on! Well, a terrifying night using Google street view promised a few restaurants, a couple of banks and a MacDonalds. The height of French culture and cuisine, clearly. That night ended in sniffles, some hyperventilation and snapping my laptop shut so quickly in frustration I almost cracked the screen.
So all in all, it takes four hours to travel anywhere of
note, I have hundreds of free hours per week but nothing to do with them, and
am scared I’ll have fewer friends than when I was four years and old and went
to nursery in Switzerland and everyone spoke French but me. Haha, oh wait, it's France, so it’s exactly like that time I went to
nursery in Switzerland and everyone spoke French but me.
I can’t help but think it’s just another smidge of proof
that if my life were transformed into a script and popped on Channel 4, it’d be
the new farcical, Miranda-esque show for Britain to laugh at. "Rural" doesn’t
even cover what’s happening to me. Come on, guys, show’s over, time to reveal
the cameras. Nice prank! Where am I really
going on my picturesque, romantic, chic French year abroad eh?
No?
For real?
Okay.
No?
For real?
Okay.
I'm worried I may devolve into a socially inept creature who scuttles around on all fours and speaks to cats. Or something. I’ll be rooting through people’s bins by fourth year!!! Look out, the Menace of Hyde Park strikes again!
That said, I know it's only daunting because it's a mystery. Certainly a mystery, but I’m sure I’ll live. It’ll be
fun and great and I just need to have a lot of faith and hold tight, etc. etc.
etc., thank you all for your advice and support. Expecting the worst means it must be better in comparison. It’ll be so different from anything else and today’s shudder-inducing
nightmare is tomorrow’s hilarious blog post and so on. Yas yas.
...At the end of the day, in that dentist’s chair, I do just
smile and nod ambiguously. Suuuure, it’s by the coast, why not? The woman isn’t a therapist so she doesn’t need me bursting into tears and sobbing until
I choke to death on her dental implements. That’s not a fun day out for
anybody.
I am so intrigued – perhaps almost excited? –
to see how this year pans out. Expect blogs, maybe lots of them. Apart from
that, expect absolutely nothing. Because I really, really don’t know what to
expect myself.
Tuesday, 30 August 2016
Growing up with NCS
Brief
silence. A hand shoots up. “Social enterprise is, like, when Jamie Oliver
teaches homeless people to cook, right? Social enterprise is a charity
business.” A small pause as she recalls the second question I’ve asked her. “Oh,
and I want to work in events management.” And so another year as Summer Staff
at NCS with the Challenge is well underway. I’m lost for words as I look at my
team of Young People. Although they have already impressed me last week with rock
climbing, hiking and canoeing, showing fearsome team support and bonding as
soon as Day One, today already seems to be topping even that.
Next.
“I want to work in artificial intelligence.” “Um, graphic design.” “I’d quite
like to… Be Prime Minister.” Oh right – nothing too difficult, then. Was I this
sorted when I was sixteen? Surely not. This lot are incredible.
Although,
after five summers at NCS with the Challenge, I should have learned: they
always are. A fact completely unanticipated in July 2012 when, a week before
the London Olympics began, I sobbed in the car, begging my mum to take me back
home. “I don’t want to go! It’s going to be… Weird!” the sixteen-year-old me whimpered. “I won't like anybody!”
Yet
four years later, and the Rio Olympics in the limelight, I'm still coming back
for more, and not one year of my journey with NCS has failed to impress or
amaze me. Starting with my own 2012 experience as a participant after my GCSEs,
completing two years of volunteering as an Associate Mentor then Senior
Associate Mentor, and then beginning my journey as a Senior Mentor in 2015, I truly
have seen the ins and outs of the entire programme and feel lucky to know both
sides of the process. How I respected my Senior Mentor four years ago continues
to inspire me as I work with my own team now, and my own memories of my time on
NCS with The Challenge give me absolute faith that with the right encouragement
and empowerment, every single young person we work with has the potential to
achieve incredible things.
(Clockwise from top left) Me as a participant in 2012; me
as a member of staff 2016: during the talent show, Dragons Den day, dressed as
a "Roadman" by my team
|
Hiking on the Isle of Wight, 2015 |
I used to think, in
fact, that NCS attracted the best of the best (how else would team after team after
team succeed so perfectly and be so motivated, intelligent and hard-working?
How else would I see so many original campaigns and inspiring speeches?) –
young people who were without fail driven, kind, supportive, eager to be
creative and willing to volunteer. The stars of their school, the rare gems of
their community. I was astounded that whatever the challenge, they managed to take
responsibility, think for themselves and make a difference. However, I was
wrong. NCS does not simply bring in a specific streamlined breed of young
people who are all automatically equipped to inspire and destined to change the
world. Instead, the NCS programme has the ability to include and involve any
single young person in the country, and then coax out that inevitable, dazzling
talent within them – regardless of
who they are. That’s right – watch out, world. They are all capable.
And
when it comes to raw material to work with, we are ready for, and actively
welcoming of, anything. The entire programme is about social mixing and
inclusivity – any background or past is welcome and an astonishing number of tailored
staff roles are at hand to cater for any severity of anything from a physical
disability, to a mental illness, to a learning difficulty. Rest assured that
you will be on a learning curve, no matter the part you play, but the
challenges faced become the glue between a staff team, the bond between young
people, and ultimately the most valuable lessons each participant takes with
them for life. ‘Challenge yourself’ is on our code of conduct, and with good
reason.
It has been a joy to watch NCS with The Challenge develop
since I first became involved: only
six years after the initial pilot of the programme, the ball is well and truly
rolling, and I have faith that the momentum won’t be lost any time soon. NCS
does not simply tell the young people of today to go into their communities and
change what isn’t good enough; it shows them how to do so, and then encourages them to do it themselves. If ‘teaching
a man to fish lets him eat for life’, then NCS is the equivalent of teaching a person
the necessary skills to fish sustainably, to create a fishing business and then
to divide produce amongst those unable to fish themselves… With some guidance
on campaigning for endangered fish in their free time.
So…
Why do NCS with The Challenge? Why work with us? Why participate?
I've been to Sussex. Durham.
Isle of Wight. Devon. I’ve visited countless charities, businesses and local
high streets. I've managed teams, made films, organised talent shows, directed
workshops, been moved to tears, been confided in, and been utterly humbled. I’ve
had Total Eclipse of the Heart sung
to me while frozen with fear at the top of a high ropes course. I’ve had my
hand grabbed as I jump, shrieking, into the sea. I’ve campaigned about social media
and mental illness in teens, given speeches on the dangers of stereotyping,
visited Make-A-Wish foundation, listened to stories about the Second World War
from people who were there. Now, years later and a member of staff, I’ve performed
S Club 7 tributes, been dressed up as a “roadman” (twice), witnessed the most seemingly
unlikely friendships grow time and time again until I have come to expect them,
dealt with complex situations I never thought I would, learnt to cherish the unexpected,
held myself and others together (and in turn been held together too), watched
fundraisers and performances of a lifetime, been made to laugh until I was in
pain – and it’s my job. Is it any
wonder that four years on, I still consider NCS an essential part of my summer?
I
genuinely believe that NCS with The Challenge is the beginnings of the
revolution of thought we so badly need in this society and across the globe. Social
mixing, acceptance, respect, team-building and communication are being
instilled from the ground up, from the generations that will form our future
leaders and communities. NCS with The Challenge is encouraging, year by year,
the foundations of the change our messy society is thirsting for, through a
committed ethos of inspiration and social action.
Current
affairs may seem bleak, but have faith: there are good things coming… And while
they may be only sixteen years old today, just you wait. They could well change
the world.
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